Same Same…

You know what really sucks? Being sick. What sucks even more than being sick…being sick in a country where you don’t speak the language, where you don’t know where to find normal apple juice, and all you crave is your own bed with your own sheets and your comfy snuggly Pj’s that crinkle in all the right places. Ahhh…home. Yes it would also be nice to have someone coddle you in your moment of being utterly ill, looking utterly disgusting, and doing utterly disgusting things that no one else would do for you. OH right, I decided to travel the world, and so here I am in Hanoi after my crappy train ride, which I think got me sick in the first place, with no apple juice in sight, no bed or pj’s cause I sold my home months ago including my bed. Reality check…how’s that saying go, you made your bed, now you have to lie in it!? I’m not complaining, however if someone could invent a time machine where I could be whisked back to my home for only a few days I’d give my…left arm, c’mon my right arm is far too valuable.

Thankfully I have a friend, who has a friend who lives in Hanoi who speaks Vietnamese. She took me to the chemist and suggested that I take these natural herbal pills that work amazingly well. This is some natural Vietnamese miracle. Cam Xuyen Huong. They’re equivalent to cold fx in Canada if not better cause they are all natural. I popped two, drank a bunch of liquid and felt as though I was going to burst into flames. My skin felt as though it was on fire, my eye balls felt as though they were going to propel themselves out of their sockets.
I was entering the worst of the whole getting better. Boy would it have been nice to have had someone of comfort. Instead I was inside my hotel room all alone huddled in my bed sweating but cold at the same time and listening to the comforting hum of my TV broadcasting “Biggest Loser Asia”. I didn’t leave my room for two days, and sweated through three sets of clothes to finally awake in a haze with a foggy mind and clogged nasal passage. Ok, I did leave my room once, but that was in a forge for some food, as in order to take my medicine I had to take it with food in my stomach, and if I didn’t have food, I couldn’t take my pills which meant I wouldn’t get better…see the cycle people. Sometimes the vicious circle needs to be broken..I’m CERTAINLY learning that as well..more about that later. In my search for Congee (my favorite comfort food – Chinese rice porridge) I had walked all of four blocks and felt dizzy so I knew I was in no condition to be doing anything other than find my food and go back to my room and sleep some more.

SO – two days later I resurfaced and still don’t feel normal (that’s subjective) but I’ve got my tours booked!!
City tour of Hanoi, Halong Bay for three days two nights, Sa pa for three nights, two days and finally perfume pagota before I fly out to Da nang and lie on a beach in Hoi an!

…..

I again apologize in lack of writing, seems to be what I am doing a lot lately, however internet access in Vietnam is slow going and it seems at times I’m able to get my account here and other times I’m not able to. I’m also only able at times to get onto my facebook account so internet has seemed to be sketchy at best for me unfortunately.

The hardest exercise I had to complete in University was to walk through my campus at half the speed I usually do. Similar to the movies you see when one person is walking through a scene at a speed which seems so slow while the entire world around them is rushing by at millions of miles faster than they are. That is what I feel like I am living through right now. The person who is going a quarter speed of the remaining world around them. Not necessarily a bad/good thing at all, just very different from what I have been use to in life. Again this was the theme of my journey correct!?

Hanoi was a prime example of that. I will NEVER complain again about traffic in my life. The main mode of travel in Vietnam seems to be by motorcycle. Which seems to be quite efficient and the cost-effective as well. As the sea of motorcycles whiz by you wonder how these people don’t have road rage which seems to be a common disease in North America. I seem to question this myself being three times the amount of people in one area than that of where I use to live. The heir-achy is such that small yields to large. As a pedestrian you yield to everyone. Then follows bicycle, than motorcycle, then car, then bus, and so forth. Seems to work fine here and SO FAR I have not seen any accidents. I suppose however that traffic is something that they deal with on a regular day basis so hence they don’t flinch at an everyday activity. Perhaps they are more worried about where their next meal comes from or how to make a living in a very poor third world country??!! Maszlo’s heirachy takes effect here. Also a lot of honking applies as well to let them know you’re coming through. You know there is a lot of leaning on the horn when that part of the steering wheel is worn out.

Just a regular day in traffic.

My first day after feeling up to dealing with the world..this side of the world was a city tour of Hanoi. Everything you could imagine. Ho Chi Minh’s mansoleum complex, One pillar pagoda, Museum of Enthology, First University, Temple of Literature. I was staying in the Old Quarter at a hotel called “Charming Hotel” so I had walked around Hoan Kiem Lake and made myself familiar with what was around that area. It was a great little tour, and definitely helpful having someone explain things to you rather than try to understand on your own. Well worth the $16, including a wonderful little lunch! Although I must say it was a bit surreal seeing Ho Chi Minh in his sarcophagus very well-preserved I must say. I guess what made it that much more emotional for me is that the other person I’ve seen that way, not so well-preserved, was my grandfather a few years ago now. Odd feeling none the less. My guide today was ‘Before’. That was his translated Vietnamese name from English. Perhaps his way of breaking the ice on his tours, which every good tour guide does to ensure their guests are having a good time and comfortable and relaxed and enjoying their tour. Word of mouth is always best business practice even on this side of the world. His favorite saying in English was – same same – meaning similar but it seems to be much easier to say same same than similar. Seems to be a phrase many Vietnamese say about many things.

Halong Bay – Trying to get onto the NEW seven wonders of the world list, and rightfully so. It was absolutely gorgeous and I went on a day that was cloudy, misty and not so nice. I only imagined how beautiful it would have been had the sky been blue and shining that day. I went on a three-day, two night tour. Although I paid a bit more than the bottom price I’ve been noticing that it’s not worth it. I got the same meals, same accommodations, and same tour than those who paid less than I did. Although the junk I sailed on was a bit nicer so I was told. I don’t think it was worth the additional monies I paid however. I kayaked in the sea although it was cloudy and looked nasty the water was quite warm. Who would pass up kayaking in the sea at Halong Bay?! We saw the caves that the Vietnamese hid in during war-time, we stopped at Cat Ba Island for the evening, and toured the bay to check out all the monuments.

Can you imagine how beautiful it would be if it were sunny!?

Sapa was the highlight of my days. Three nights and two days leaving in the evening on a night train, which I dreaded due to the horrific trip in China. I’ve come to realize it wasn’t so much the train ride but more the happenings in China. I managed to have decent cabin mates and met a newly wed couple from Holland to only be shushed by the Vietnamese man who apparently didn’t like us talking. Arriving in Sapa (northern country village in Vietnam) we were ushered like a herd of animals onto our bus. I must say Vietnamese tourism hasn’t QUITE mastered the niceties what I’m use to regarding other tours. Our first day was a 4 hour trek to see one of the villages. Simple walk, however it was freezing that day, thankfully as usual the walk helps warm you up. The second day was a 12 klm hike in which we were lucky to have the sun come out in the afternoon, while I forgot my sunscreen my forehead and nose are sun-kissed, er rather lobster like. This was absolutely beautiful scenery and I was very happy to be away from the city and the smog of the vehicles, smoke and all other odorous smells of the city. Good clean air, and amazing scenery. We ventured through many villages and to see the Black Hmong People and their way of life. I am always amazed at people who live with the absolute basic needs of life and seem to be as happy if not happier than others.

Black Hmong people

Amazing endless rice fields

We started our tour from our hotel, and along came three little girls and two other older women carrying baskets on their backs. I thought this was part of the charm of Sapa but we came to realize otherwise halfway through our trek. I understand that their only way of making a living is selling tourists items they have made, however it is sad that as children this is what you learn even from a very young age, to try to cheat tourists, to peddle items you’ve woven, knitted, or crafted in order to make a quick buck. They first make conversations with you asking about you and telling you about themselves, however you then realize there is a hidden agenda behind their conversations. Now after you’ve spoken to them very innocently you decide you don’t want to purchase one of their items they get very angry with you. It’s as if they feel they built a trust and now it’s gone because you won’t purchase from them. They get quite aggressive, and say you promised and you have to buy. It’s unfortunate the values learned by living a life-like this, but again this is the only way they understand how to make money.

Village girl playing in the sand

I met a group of young people on my tour and ended up hanging out with them for the rest of my Sapa tour. Four girls from Denmark, two boys from Kelowna, one guy from Spain, one from Dublin and one from Australia. We ended up going out and having a few drinks, playing some Denmark drinking games and staying out far TOO late for a 12 klm hike that started at 9am. Great bunch, and lots of views and opinions. Turns out women all around the world are the same with very similar thoughts and insecurities. I found myself being the ‘mature’ one of the group giving the girls talks about how important it is to feel comfortable with yourself and having self-confidence. Yeah. Me. That’s right!

One more night train back to Hanoi in a cabin with a toddler and infant who wouldn’t stop screaming/yelling and I was worse for wear again. Vacation right!? It’s similar to that of Vegas where you need another vacation after your vacation. Arriving in Hanoi at 5am and onto my final tour of Hanoi – perfume pagota. I was exhausted, still coughing and sick but you only live once, I’m in Vietnam and sleep is over rated right!?

Perfume pagoda – NOT what I expected. I must say I am NOT shocked by much but I was shocked by this. Faint at heart please stop reading now. My thoughts of perfume pagota was MUCH different from what it actually is. First you take a 2-1/2 hour bus ride to sit on a small boat to be sailed to the island. This was the easy part. While touring the pre-temple I had ended up talking to another tour person who happened to be from Jersey so it was great to again have conversations in which you didn’t need to speak in the most basic English you learned in kindergarten. As we got onto the boat, the ‘driver’ shushed us, and we were scolded for speaking English. First we were told that the boats aren’t supposed to take foreigners, however in a quick glance you could spot at least two handfuls of Caucasians who clearly were foreigners. I apparently at least look Vietnamese (according to everyone here) and he was Vietnamese American, at least we blended in.

Boat Hop Scotch to shore

As we arrived to the island, it was boat hop scotch to get to land. STOP READING IF YOU’RE FAINT OF HEART!!!! What I saw next has scarred me for life and I never thought anything would. I finally saw a dog hanging on a hook. He was a mid-sized dog and it was hanging on a hook as any other meat would be in Asian cultures, and I don’t know what it was but I couldn’t take it, it really grossed me out. I think mainly for the fact that only a few months earlier in SF I was walking my friends dog for him while he was away. It really made the distinction between North America and Asia.

Here I was thinking that it would be a nice quaint pagoda tour seeing some temples and so forth, but here right in front of me and awaiting your nice smooth boat ride was fido on a hook. Something I can NOT get use to regardless. Eeps. As we descended to the pagoda there was merchandise to be sold on either side of the trail. That in itself was a kill buzz for me. I was expecting a tour that was much more spiritual and serene not full of peddlers who at every chance they get try to sell you something. Not the confusion/Buddhist way I would suspect. None the less I made my way to the top, to be shoved, pushed, and smothered to get in yet another line to see this pagoda. Thankfully I had my new friend/translator with me which made it less difficult. It turns out it’s a cave with thousands of worshipers with food, money and incense praying for a good year, respecting the teachings of Buddha and monks and to ensure everyone’s happiness in their family. I suppose this was what I was to expect being that it was the last day of the lunar New Year and Tet here in Vietnam.

Alas I traveled to Danang by plane and splurged on a swanky hotel and have taken some much-needed time off and soul soothing. I’ve realized how different it is in Asian and I’ve learned a lot about myself and what I need and am comfortable with. It may not be a long time since I’ve been in Asia, but it has been about 5-6 months of living out of suitcase and it’s not been easy at the best of times. I think my appreciation of my life and all that I had has come to an all time high. The constant communication issues, asked to purchase something, taken for a tour on motorcycle, taxi ride every minute I walk down the street has taken its toll on me. I thought HK and it’s density was jarring, but Vietnam and being as poor as it is definitely pushes me beyond my threshold of tolerance. This probably because I left HK feeling as if I needed some personal space, some clean air to breath and some relaxing non tension feelings as if constantly needing to be alert for someone trying to rip you off because you’re a foreigner, has given my feelings of Vietnam its slight taint. It’s a great country and much to see, eat, and love, however my mental state leaving HK was not quite at its peak and it’s made this journey that much more difficult. I’ve had great experiences and met some wonderful people (All at the Charming Hotel in Hanoi – amazing helpful people, whom on my last day I bought ice cream for the staff and they were the happiest most appreciative people I’ve ever seen), but I think I’m ready for a break and something a little easier right now.

This journey is about getting to my smiling heart, and although it’s at a slight grin right now I need to stop exhausting myself and just enjoy. The best part of not having a set schedule and plane ticket I can dictate where I want to go next and what I want to do as it’s about doing what makes me happy……..

~ by Smiling Heart on March 15, 2010.